The proper, truly pointed V-groove router bit was used to make this box, as I learned my lessons from previous projects. My journey with this method of making MDF boxes has continued, and at last, I have started using the right tools for the job. Not only did cutting the materials on my router table go smoothly, but also glueing everything together was a breeze. This time, everything was straightforward and went as planned. There was no improvisation, and I can tell that this method can surely become my new favourite way of making handy-dandy boxes. By taking a few precautions, it is quite foolproof.
Just like last time, I cut two identical pieces of MDF using my table saw. I set up my router table and the fence, and most importantly, I used the proper router bit – a sharply pointed one to ensure the correct shape of the V-grooves. Installing a provisional dust extraction system also helped keep the MDF sheet firmly against the bit. This way, the V-grooves were uniformly deep, and my work environment was dust-free. A proper extraction system for my router table is definitely next on my to-do list.
Once I trimmed the corners with my utility knife, the workpieces were ready for the glue-up. One box at a time, as I only had one strap clamp available. There was no need to apply much force here, just enough to close the mitres together. It’s worth noting that repeatedly folding the sheets back and forth will eventually disintegrate the paper-thin fold lines, so it’s not recommended with this method. But this is just common sense and shouldn’t come as a surprise. They surely can be folded once, I’m not sure if twice.
For the liner, I decided to use the timber I had on hand, which would explain its height. I first thought that my liner was slightly oversized, but that design helped to protect the content during opening and closing. I could always cut it off, but eventually, its size wasn’t an issue but an advantage. I used my jigsaw jig to resaw the board I had in stock. It took me 20 minutes, and I probably won’t use that tool for this task again, but it saved me a trip to the local DIY store. I used pallet wood to make the process a bit more challenging – after all, if it’s too easy, it doesn’t always feel as satisfying! Once the board was resawn in half, I pulled out my thickness planer and smoothed both pieces. Meanwhile, I also rounded over the MDF boxes with a 3 mm radius bit.
I locked the arm of my mitre saw so it could only move back and forth, not up and down. This helped me visualise the cut line more easily. I could see from behind the blade where it would make contact and cut. Cutting longer pieces to length was straightforward, but it took a few attempts to get the shorter pieces cut precisely for a perfect fit. I wanted them snug but not too tight, to avoid splitting the MDF box. Once the glue dried, I began sanding the liner to ensure it would fit smoothly into the lid.
It turned out that sanding was taking too much time, but using a planer got the job done quickly. I painted the boxes and let them dry for a few days. Meanwhile, I began preparing the bit-holding blocks. Since these were intended for 8 mm bits, I used an 8 mm drill bit. To ensure the holes were perfectly centred and drilled at a 90º angle, I used my new drill guide. Once all the holes were pre-drilled, I planed the workpiece with my thickness planer. The bottom had a few days to dry and release moisture, which affected the fit, so I had to plane the liner down a bit more. As before, I used my 12-volt planer at its minimum depth, but I accidentally gouged the MDF box and had to repair it. I filled the gouge with wood filler, sanded it flat, and applied another coat of spray paint. This time, I painted the MDF edge as well, which looked much better than leaving it raw. For the pink top, I started with coloured spray paint (which ran out mid-process) and then added a coat of clear paint. I like finishing MDF this way because it’s more scratch-resistant and requires less coloured paint. Ideally, I would have finished the bottom the same way, but unfortunately, I also ran out of clear spray paint.
The pre-drilled workpiece was attached to another piece of wood with double-sided tape. I made sure the blade wouldn’t cut into the adhesive and set it to a 27º angle. Safety was my top priority, so I focused on making that cut carefully to avoid any kickback. I’m sure there were many other ways to cut that timber safely, but this method felt ideal for the job.
Next, I cut all the blocks to the same length, sanded them, and countersunk the holes. Setting the drill to reverse worked better for this step – it cut slower but produced much smoother edges. The final task was glueing the blocks to the base. Just a few drops of glue (and no clamps) did the trick. I intentionally left some free space on the side of the box for storing items other than router bits. From experience, I know that these boxes, though designed for router bits, often end up holding Allen keys, bearings, and other small tools as well.
As mentioned earlier, the process of cutting V-grooves and glueing the boxes was almost foolproof. Not much could go wrong as long as common sense prevailed. The key was using the proper bit along with strap clamps. For smaller boxes, I’d probably use rubber bands instead. Encouraged by the simplicity of the process, I decided to experiment by adding a liner – something I’d wanted to try for a while. While the liner was a great addition, resawing it with a jigsaw was not the best choice. I was also ready to take a break from using hinges, so I opted for a lift-off lid that fits snugly but not too tightly – an ideal touch for this straightforward project. I was glad to use some pallet wood I had in stock and finish off a few old cans of spray paint, which is why the bottom has a different colour than the top. I’m very pleased with how this project turned out – now I have a dedicated box for my 8 mm router bits. Not only did I master this method of making MDF boxes, but I also cleared out some pallet wood and used up nearly empty paint cans.
