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Decorative little fence
Like a full-size fence, that one also comprised pickets, rails and posts. It was made of scrap wood, but not any wood – those very offcuts came from the building of a real fence. 13 mini pickets in total, 4 of them were longer and served as posts that could be set in the ground. Rails were simplified and they were just perforated steel band straps. Each picket was fixed with screws in 2 places, allowing the fence to be set on a slope. It even came with a setting tool that made the pounding down a little easier and…
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Radiator shelf
The purpose of this shelf was to fill out an empty space above the radiator, if it was hung somewhere else it’d have a different name. Shelves are the most common and frequent projects that I make. None of them is the same, they’re always unique. Their names have to be unique too. This is just an idea of giving them names instead of numbers. In this project, I used the joints that made the brackets naturally strong and they didn’t have to be reinforced with anything. The board is fixed to the brackets with screws and it has some…
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Corbel shelf
Both corbels are made from upcycled material, but I saved some time by buying a board for the top instead of making it myself. The shelf is put together with dowels and glue and that way there are no visible fasteners, not to mention its mounting brackets that are also hidden from sight. The corbels are thick and long, they dominate the shelf visually, giving an illusion of sturdiness. Because the shelf is made of softwood, it’s naturally light and all the force that the brackets can take is left for what is going to be put on the shelf.…
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Reusing a cracked chopping board
It was a beautiful, bamboo chopping board, unfortunately, due to the heat and moisture, it cracked along 2 lines. I didn’t want to reglue it because it looked perfect for some small projects and experiments. I made what I needed in my household – a simple coaster and a soap tray. There was still some crack-free board surface left to use, but I stopped at 2 projects and put the board aside for a while. I started from the coaster, as it was a more urgent thing to have, using a template that I made in the past. I had…
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Spire
Made from a single piece of timber without using a lathe. It was cut with a table saw and a very simple jig that had to be built for that project. The spire is 88 cm tall (~ 35 inches), its peak isn’t sharp but if it was the spire would be 35 cm taller (another 13 3/4″) and that way it would form a perfect cone. This project was inspired by The Spire of Dublin and it’s also made in Ireland. It must be very Irish to build spires, I guess. As mentioned, the jig I built for the…
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Over-engineered metal-free box
This box is made out of 100% upcycled materials, the walls and the bottom of this box are veneered chipboard sheets, reclaimed material that came from an unwanted piece of furniture. Solid timber corners were made in the past, using a router and 2 common bits, I made a few of them and they were put aside and waited for the right project. They were originally a single board used on a construction site. The bottom rails were off-cuts from another project – basically just scraps. Everything is glued together – which makes the box 100% metal-free. Even during the…
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Bookcase
This is a simple but quite sturdy construction, it has a modern, industrial look, and it can be disassembled and moved by one person. The plywood shelves are perfect for supporting heavy items, like books, that’s why this bookcase uses them instead of solid wood boards, which had to be thicker to support the same weight. The frame is designed to be rigid and not to take up much space. All the metal braces and screw heads are either painted white or covered with white caps. This bookcase was relatively easy to make – the hardest part was the cutting…
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Improved circular saw jig
It’s based on the previous version, but the capacity and functionality are improved. The front and the back pairs of blocks are replaced by longer risers. This is specifically important for the front, where there is no big gap now, and I can cut shorter pieces. Both ends of the workpiece are always supported with the left and right side of the jig and that increases accuracy too. The capacity is also bigger, and it’s been increased from about 34 to 50 mm (about 1 1/2 to 2 inches). This is the maximum blade position at the same time if…
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Half-lap picture frames
There are a few advantages of using half-lap joints instead of mitre joints in picture frames. They’re easy to make, they’re strong and don’t require any reinforcements, their appearance is attractive, there are no inconsistent and widening gaps in joints over time and they’re easy to clamp during the glue-up process. The timber used in the project was reclaimed, I cut it to size and planed it myself. Here’s how I made these 2 frames: The preparation of the timber was as usual: rip-cutting, planing and cutting to a rough length. I had to adjust the size of the smaller…
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Snipe reducing and reversible thickness planer jig
This jig helps to reduce the planer snipe significantly. Not completely – the real numbers are about 90% less snipe and I’m happy with that. Sniping occurs less frequently and if it does it’s very small. It’s not as deep as it used to be. To complete the test, I run 3 boards through the planer, one by one, planing both sides and not using any tricks. I’m very impressed with the results – if I used some tricks and did some sanding, the test pieces would look close to perfect. The melamine chipboard I used for the jig was…
